Ama Dablam climbing expedition

Ama Dablam is one of the mountains where you have the greatest demand. The mountain is very beautiful, but also very technical to climb, which makes it very disarable.

It is 6856 meter high and is on the-most-wanted-list for a lot of alpine climbers.

Ama Dablam has during several years been very dangerous as big parts of the ice serac on the top section has been avalanching down the mountain. It looks completely different up there now, from camp 3 and up to the serac. As parts of the new area for Camp 3 has become a steep slope we set our tents higher up against the mountain where it is still a flat area.

There are a lot of outfitters returned to Ama Dablam this year and we choose to start sell commercial trips to Ama Dablam now as we thought it used to be too dangerous to climb earlier years.

We will follow the normal route, which goes over the Southwest ridge of Ama. Base camp is located at 4450 meters and is a very beatuful spot with grassy fields. We will follow the ridge to the East and will reach a saddle at 5100 meters. We continue up towards big boulders and sets Advanced camp at 5400 meters. just below the boulders.

From here we will climb the Southwest ridge up against Camp 1 at 5700 meters. There are enough room to put 5-7 tents up here. The climb goes further up to Camp 2 and here starts the technical climbing for real with difficult pitches and exposed traverses, where the last one reaches up to the Yellow Tower and camp 2 at 5900 meters. Camp 2 is very exposed with only a few good tent spots.

The climb towards Camp 3, contains more narrow traverses and some very exposed climbing. We are passing the Grey Tower and will reach the ridge which will lead us to Mushroom Ridge. Camp 3 is located at 6300 meters. The area were we will set our tents has changed a lot since the ice avalanges and is more of a slope now. We put our tents higher up against the mountain where we will find flat areas.

Last push up to the summit of Ama Dablam. We will climb the right side of the ice serac (Dablam) up to a small snowfield just beneath the Bergschrund, we cross the Bergschrund and follow the route to the top at 6856 meters. The view is fenomenal and you should be very proud of yourself if you manage to climb this beautiful mountain. After that a lot of repelling and careful climbing down to the Base camp will follow.

Climbing grade: 5D Read more about grading

Dates 2010:

October 15 - November 14, 31 days.